Train travel is a wonderful way to see Italy getting from A to B, Milan to Naples or the Dolomites to Sicily. This summer, I journeyed to, from and around Italy with our dog Coco. Here are my tips for travelling on Italian trains:
When I moved to Italy to teach English 25 years ago, there was no English!
I think trains are the best way to travel the land but with last minute announcements in fuzzy, italiano rapido, the train station platforms used to fill us with dread. Back in the day, we even had to timbrare or woe was us when the conductor came around and our ticket wasn't stamped!
Luckily, these days, announcements and bookings are multi-lingual in major stations and almost everyone understands and/or speaks a little English making Italian train travel a dolce vita dream.
Here's what to do (and what not to do) for smooth Italian train travel:
Book online - to avoid the queue at the ticket counter with a thick glass sound barrier and impatient seasoned travellers behind you, simply head to one of these two websites (conveniently multilingual) to book your tickets:
Trenitalia - a network of regional and intercity trains with the option of Le Frecce high speed links.
Italo - From Rome, Florence, Venice, Milan, Naples, Italo offers modern trains at discount prices but add-ons are costly, like pets!
Book in advance for great deals and low prices. I found that the direct trains and overnight sleepers sell out very quickly. Train tickets are released 3 months in advance so if you know your dates, it's worth grabbing them. There are flexi-options with refundable or changeable tickets so always check the small print and look out for summer or holiday specials especially if you're travelling with family, friends or pets.
Use the ticket machines at the station - these are multi-lingual, easy to use and dotted around every station.
Get there early and use the ticket counter - It's undoubtedly easier to talk to someone and add your pet or bike (which might be tricky online) but you do run the risk of your chosen train being fully booked.
Italian train stations have wonderfully retro printed posters of Partenze/Departures and Arrivi/Arrivals on all platforms and around the station. Sort through the destinations in alphabetical order, find yours and you'll see all the times listed in tiny print with a platform number. Always double check the platform number on the screens just to be sure. 20 years ago, these posters are what we relied on before smart phones!
Timbrare - once upon a time, the biggest worry as a foreigner was that you'd forget to timbrare - stamp your ticket. Punching your ticket was essential to prove the timing of your trip so we'd look out for the yellow boxes dotted about the station which would punch the date and time straight onto your ticket. In older stations the boxes are still there and they're still yellow but luckily in these digital times, stamping tickets is not necessary and you can simply show the conductor your ticket or QR code.
When booking regional trains online, check in is required before you can travel. This is done online and you'll receive an email link along with your booking, is this the old fashion stamp turned digital?
Watch the departures and arrivals boards for platform numbers: Partenze = Departures, and Arrivi = Arrivals. Even if your e-ticket states a platform number, it's always good practice to double check as they sometimes change before departure.
Once on the platform, keep an eye on the notices, these will advise you of any changes to the schedule and late arrivals. Announcements will be in made in Italian (and maybe other languages) but they're often hard to follow so the notice boards are your best bet.
If in doubt, ask someone. This is what we all do! Most people speak English and are keen to help a fellow traveller.
Once on the train, depending on the service, upcoming stops are well displayed on screens with timetables, connecting trains and any changes to the service advised clearly.
Double check the train does not split in two and you are on the wrong half - this happened to me last year on my way to Milan! Luckily the conductor suggested a quick changeover in the opposite direction but it was all very tense and unavoidable had I been paying attention. Your best bet is to keep an eye on the screens onboard and listen for announcements in your language. (Once again, ask someone if you are not sure.)
Don't risk not having a pre-bought ticket. Fines can be hefty! That said, if you can't add a pet or a bike when booking, talk to the conductor and explain your conundrum. Coco travelled for free on Austria's ÖBB because the ticket man was so sweet and on Italy's regional train last week, I was only charged for a child's ticket with the fine lifted by another kind conductress.
Travelling with Pets on Italian Trains
We love to take our dog Coco on holiday with us and she absolutely adores the train! She is a medium-sized collie-cross so doesn't fall into the small pet category and can't be put in a carrier.
Pet rules change all the time - it's worth checking Trenitalia or Italo's policy online before you book. As I write this blog post, dogs, cats and small pets travel free on Italian trains if kept in a pet carrier whereas larger-sized dogs must have a ticket.
Trenitalia had a dogs-go-free-discount this summer, all we had to do was add a dog to our adult ticket when booking online.
Italo only allows larger dogs in first class, our medium-sized Coco was 50 euros extra per train journey and we had to call customer-service to add her to our trip - not the easiest or cheapest of options. Italo does provide you with a dog-mat and reserves the last single seat of the carriage so your dog has place to lie down beside you.
Regional trains require a booking for your pet which is 50% of the adult fare, this can be bought when booking online as an option when selecting passengers. A 30 euro fine is charged if you do not buy a ticket so if you purchase tickets from the machine at the station, make sure to add on a child ticket if the pet one is not visible.
Must I muzzle my dog on European Trains?
Rules state that dogs that are too large for a carrier must be on a leash and muzzled. This rule is incredibly lax - on the 9 different European trains I took from Paris to Venice and back this summer (and indeed on every train she's been on in Italy), I was never asked to put her muzzle on. Unless your dog is used to a muzzle, I'd recommend a soft one. We purchased this one for Coco on Amazon which she got used to quickly and kept it ready if anyone asked. Generally, there's a true love of dogs and you'll see many passengers and train staff are ready with a big smile and a little cuddle for your pet. It's a wonderfully relaxing way to travel around Italy especially if your dog loves adventure and can sit quietly for long periods of time. Coco is 15 so she sleeps a lot! Her favourite part is when the train doors open and she is somewhere new.
Travelling with a Bike or Large Luggage on Italian trains is easy if there is enough space. I'd suggest you book your seat whenever you can and use the luggage racks provided. Bike areas are specified on certain coaches and tickets can be purchased online. With Trenitalia, a bike ticket is required (except for Le Frecce trains) while Italo cyclists can bring their bike for free.
My journey back last week went across northern Italy from Conegliano to Venice to Bologna to Milan and then on to Zurich in Switzerland and Paris in France on SNCF trains. From Paris to London I used the fabulous BlaBlaCar app, making sure there was time for gelato, but that's a story for another day...
Buon viaggio amici!
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